Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 3
Drafting basic skirt blocks
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Drafting basic skirt blocks
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Subject: Garment Making
Class: Senior Secondary 3
Term: 1st Term
Week: 6
Theme: Pattern Drafting 2
This page supports the lesson note with a companion video and a short classroom-ready summary.
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Students should beable to out line the bodymeasurementsnecessary for.draftingskirt blocks. draft front and backblocks.
This section provides the foundational knowledge and step-by-step instructions required for drafting basic skirt blocks.
A. Definition of a Block: A 'block' (also known as a 'sloper' or 'basic pattern') is a plain, fitted pattern without any design features, seam allowances, or style lines. It represents the basic shape of the body part it covers, providing a foundation for creating various garment styles. For a skirt, the block fits closely to the waist and hips.
B. Importance of Skirt Blocks: Foundation for Design: It serves as the base for designing countless skirt styles (e.g., A-line, gathered, flared, pencil, pleated skirts).
Ensures Fit: When drafted accurately to individual body measurements, it guarantees a good fit, which is paramount in garment construction.
Consistency: Provides a standard against which new designs can be developed and checked for proportion and balance.
Efficiency: Saves time in the long run by providing a reusable base pattern.
C. Body Measurements Necessary for Drafting Skirt Blocks: Accurate measurements are critical for a well-fitting block. The teacher should demonstrate taking these measurements on a student or mannequin, emphasizing precision.
1. Waist Circumference (W.C.): Measure horizontally around the narrowest part of the torso, usually above the navel. Ensure the tape measure is snug but not tight.
2. Hip Circumference (H.C.): Measure horizontally around the fullest part of the hips and buttocks. Ensure the tape measure is parallel to the floor and not dipping at the back.
3. Hip Depth (H.D.) / Length to Hip: Measure vertically from the natural waistline down to the fullest part of the hips.
4. Skirt Length (S.L.): Measure vertically from the natural waistline down to the desired length of the skirt (e.g., knee length, mid-calf, ankle length).
D. Pattern Drafting Tools: Measuring Tape: For taking body measurements and transferring them to paper. Rulers (Straight, L-Square/Set Square): For drawing straight lines and ensuring right angles.
Curve Ruler (French Curve/Hip Curve): For drawing smooth curved lines, especially for hip and dart shapes.
Pattern Paper: Large sheets of paper for drafting (e.g., brown paper, newsprint, dot-and-cross paper).
Pencil (HB or 2B): For drawing lines clearly.
Eraser: For correcting errors.
Scissors: For cutting out the drafted pattern.
Tracing Wheel: (Optional, for transferring markings).
E. Ease Allowance: Ease is the extra measurement added to body measurements to allow for movement, comfort, and fitting over undergarments.
Waist Ease: Generally minimal, 0 - 0.5 inches (0 - 1.25 cm).
Hip Ease: Essential for sitting and movement. Typically 1.5 - 2 inches (3.75 - 5 cm) for a basic fitted skirt. This total ease is distributed around the circumference.
Example Calculation: If Hip Circumference is 40 inches and 2 inches ease is desired, the total hip measurement on the pattern will be 40 + 2 = 42 inches.
F. Step-by-Step Drafting of Basic Skirt Blocks: This lesson will assume a standard adult female block. Measurements used in the example are illustrative. Teachers should guide students to use their own or provided measurements. Assumed Measurements for
Example: Waist Circumference (W.C.) = 28 inches Hip Circumference (H.C.) = 40 inches Hip Depth (H.D.) = 8 inches Skirt Length (S.L.) = 24 inches Hip Ease = 2 inches (Total) Waist Ease = 0 inches Calculations for Pattern: Total Hip (with ease) = H.C. + Hip Ease = 40 + 2 = 42 inches Front Block Hip Measurement = Total Hip / 2 = 42 / 2 = 21 inches Back Block Hip Measurement = Total Hip / 2 = 42 / 2 = 21 inches Front Block Waist Measurement = (W.C. / 2) + dart intake = (28 / 2) + dart intake = 14 + dart intake inches Back Block Waist Measurement = (W.C. / 2) + dart intake = (28 / 2) + dart intake = 14 + dart intake inches Note on Dart Intake:* For a basic skirt, a typical dart intake is 1-1.5 inches per dart. The total dart intake for half of the skirt (front or back) will be distributed among the darts. For / 2 = 21 inches Front Block Waist Measurement = (W.C. / 2) + dart intake = (28 / 2) + dart intake = 14 + dart intake inches Back Block Waist Measurement = (W.C. / 2) + dart intake = (28 / 2) + dart intake = 14 + dart intake inches Note on Dart Intake:* For a basic skirt, a typical dart intake is 1-1.5 inches per dart. The total dart intake for half of the skirt (front or back) will be distributed among the darts. For a basic one-dart skirt, the dart intake for half the waist is often between 2-3 inches (so, 2 inches for a single front dart, and 2 inches for a single back dart, or two smaller darts). We will assume 2 inches dart intake for each front and back block.
A. Teacher Activities: Introduction (10 minutes): Introduce the concept of garment blocks and their importance in tailoring and fashion design. Display examples of finished garments or patterns derived from basic blocks to illustrate their versatility. Briefly outline the performance objectives for the lesson.
Measurement Demonstration (20 minutes): Using a student volunteer or a dress form/mannequin, demonstrate how to accurately take the four essential body measurements for a skirt (Waist Circumference, Hip Circumference, Hip Depth, Skirt Length). Emphasize correct posture, tape measure placement, and reading. Explain the concept of 'ease' and why it's added. Explanation of Tools and Calculations (15 minutes): Present and explain the function of each drafting tool. Walk through the calculations required to adapt body measurements for the pattern block (e.g., dividing by 4 for quarter patterns, adding ease, determining dart intake). Use the example measurements provided in the Key Concepts section. Demonstration of Front Skirt Block Drafting (30 minutes): Using a large sheet of pattern paper on a whiteboard or chalkboard (or projector), meticulously demonstrate the step-by-step process of drafting the front basic skirt block. Clearly label all points and lines as they are drawn. Explain the purpose of each line and measurement. Ensure students can clearly see each step. Demonstration of Back Skirt Block Drafting (30 minutes): Following the front block, demonstrate the drafting of the back basic skirt block, highlighting similarities and key differences (e.g., typically longer dart, possible slight curve at CB). Explain the purpose of the back dart's length and position.
Q&A and Clarification (15 minutes): Open the floor for questions from students regarding any part of the measurements, calculations, or drafting process. Reiterate key challenging points.
Assignment of Practical Task: Instruct students to prepare their drafting tools and pattern paper for practical work in the next session or as homework.
B. Student Activities: Active Listening and Note-Taking: Students will pay close attention during explanations and demonstrations, taking comprehensive notes.
Participation in Measurement Taking: Students will observe the teacher's measurement demonstration, volunteer to be measured (if comfortable), or practice measuring classmates under supervision.
Calculations Practice: Students will practice the necessary calculations for pattern drafting using provided or their own body measurements.
Observation of Drafting Demonstration: Students will closely observe the teacher's step-by-step drafting demonstrations for both front and back blocks, noting techniques and precision.
Q&A: Students will ask questions to clarify doubts during the dedicated Q&A session.
Preparation for Practical Work: Students will gather their drafting tools and pattern paper as instructed, ready to draft their own blocks. The teacher should provide these questions for students to work through, offering assistance as needed, and then review the solutions collaboratively.
Question 1 (Targeting PO 1): List four essential body measurements required for drafting a basic skirt block. Explain briefly why each measurement is important.
Solution 1: Waist Circumference: Important for determining the width of the skirt at the waistline and for calculating dart intake to ensure a snug fit around the narrowest part of the torso.
Hip Circumference: Crucial for establishing the fullest width of the skirt to accommodate the hips and buttocks comfortably, allowing for ease of movement.
Hip Depth (Length to Hip): Defines the vertical distance from the natural waist to the fullest part of the hip, ensuring the hip curve and maximum width are placed correctly on the pattern.
Skirt Length: Determines the overall vertical dimension of the skirt from the waistline to the desired hem, allowing for varied skirt styles (e.g., mini, knee-length, maxi). Question 2 (Targeting PO 1 & 2 - Calculation focus): A student has the following body measurements: Waist Circumference (W.C.) = 30 inches Hip Circumference (H.C.) = 42 inches Hip Depth (H.D.) = 9 inches Skirt Length (S.L.) = 22 inches Assuming 2 inches total hip ease and a 2-inch dart intake for each the front and back block: a. Calculate the total hip measurement required on the pattern (including ease). b. Calculate the quarter hip measurement (for one side of the front/back block). c. Calculate the quarter waist measurement before considering dart intake for one side of the front/back block. d. Calculate the approximate width of the front waistline from Centre Front to the side seam point (assuming a 2-inch dart intake is fully incorporated at the side seam point for initial drafting reference).
Solution 2: a. Total Hip Measurement (with ease) = H.C. + Hip Ease = 42 inches + 2 inches = 44 inches. b. Quarter Hip Measurement = Total Hip (with ease) / 4 = 44 inches / 4 = 11 inches. c. Quarter Waist Measurement (before dart) = W.C. / 4 = 30 inches / 4 = 7.5 inches. d. Approximate Width of Front Waistline (CF to Side Seam point) = (W.C. / 4) + Dart Intake = 7.5 inches + 2 inches = 9.5 inches.
Commentary: This 9.5 inches represents the overall width of the waistline on the pattern before the dart is sewn. The dart will reduce the waist by 2 inches, bringing it back to 7.5 inches for the quarter waist. Question 3 (Targeting PO 2 - Step identification): Arrange the following steps for drafting a basic front skirt block in the correct sequence (1-6): Draw side seam from hip to waist and hip to hem. Mark Skirt Length (S.L.) and Hip Depth (H.D.) from the waistline down the Centre Front (CF) line. Draw a Centre Front (CF) line and mark the waistline point (A). Add the waist dart based on calculated dart intake and dart length. Square out lines for waist, hip, and hem from the CF line. Mark the quarter hip measurement on the hip line and the calculated waistline width on the waistline.
Solution 3: Draw a Centre Front (CF) line and mark the waistline point (A). Mark Skirt Length (S.L.) and Hip Depth (H.D.) from the waistline down the Centre Front (CF) line. Square out lines for waist, hip, and hem from the CF line. Mark the quarter hip measurement on the hip line and the calculated waistline width on the waistline. Draw side seam from hip to waist and hip to hem. Add the waist dart based on calculated dart intake and dart length.
Tailoring and Fashion Entrepreneurship (Naira for Skill): This skill is directly applicable to starting a small tailoring business in Nigeria. Many fashion entrepreneurs in urban and rural areas rely on custom-made garments. Students can use their block drafting skills to create well-fitting skirts for clients, from office wear to church outfits or traditional event attire (e.g., a fitted skirt to go with a "buba" or "iro"). This provides a direct path to self-employment and income generation. Community Development through Vocational Training: Graduates with this skill can serve as vocational trainers in their communities, teaching basic pattern drafting to other youths, women's cooperatives, or community groups. This helps to empower others with valuable skills, contributing to local economic development and reducing unemployment, especially for women seeking sustainable livelihoods.
Apparel Manufacturing and Quality Control: Understanding how blocks are drafted is fundamental for anyone working in or aspiring to join larger garment manufacturing companies in Nigeria. Knowledge of block drafting aids in understanding pattern modifications, grading (sizing patterns up or down), and ensuring the quality and fit of mass-produced garments, supporting the growth of "Made-in-Nigeria" apparel.