Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 2
Tinting and colouring of hair
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Tinting and colouring of hair
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Subject: Cosmetology
Class: Senior Secondary 2
Term: 2nd Term
Week: 7
Theme: Hair Care And Hair Products
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Instruments (Tools): Non-metallic Mixing Bowl: To mix colour and developer. Metal bowls can react with the chemicals.
Applicator Brush/Bottle: For precise and even application of colour.
Sectioning Clips: To hold sections of hair out of the way during application.
Tint Cape/Protective Drape: To protect the client's clothing from stains.
Protective Gloves: Essential for the colourist to prevent skin irritation and staining.
Timer: To accurately monitor processing time.
Measuring Cups/Scale: For precise measurement of colour and developer, ensuring correct ratios.
Processing Caps (Plastic): To cover the hair during processing, helping to retain heat and prevent drying.
Hair colours are classified based on their longevity and the way they penetrate the hair shaft.
Temporary Hair Colour: Description: These colours only coat the cuticle layer of the hair. They do not penetrate the cortex.
Mechanism: Large pigment molecules sit on the surface of the hair.
Longevity: Lasts from shampoo to shampoo; easily washed out.
Examples: Colour rinses, hair chalks, colour mousses, hair mascaras, spray-on colours. Often used for events, costume changes, or for a quick, non-committal change.
Suitability: Ideal for a quick change, adding subtle tones, or for individuals with allergic reactions to permanent dyes. Less damaging to hair, making it suitable for all hair types, including natural and relaxed Nigerian hair.
Disadvantages: Limited colour range, doesn't lighten hair, can rub off on clothing.
Semi-Permanent Hair Colour: Description: These colours penetrate the cuticle layer partially but do not reach the cortex. They contain no ammonia and typically require no developer.
Mechanism: Smaller pigment molecules enter the hair shaft slightly but do not create a chemical change.
Longevity: Lasts 4-8 shampoos, gradually fading with each wash.
Examples: Direct dyes available in various forms (creams, gels). Common brands might include those used for vibrant fashion colours on pre-lightened hair or for adding subtle tints.
Suitability: Good for enhancing natural colour, blending grey hair (not covering completely), or refreshing faded permanent colour. Minimal damage to hair, often conditioning. Popular in Nigeria for refreshing relaxed hair or adding shine and subtle colour to natural styles.
Disadvantages: Does not lighten hair, limited grey coverage.
Demi-Permanent Hair Colour: Description: These colours penetrate the cuticle and a portion of the cortex. They contain low or no ammonia and use a low-volume developer (typically 10 volume peroxide) to open the cuticle slightly.
Mechanism: Oxidative dyes mix with a developer, allowing pigment molecules to partially enter the cortex.
Longevity: Lasts 12-24 shampoos, fading gradually without a noticeable line of demarcation.
Examples: Glosses, toners, and blend colours. Used for enriching natural colour, covering up to 70% grey, or toning pre-lightened hair.
Suitability: Excellent for blending grey, enhancing natural colour, or correcting unwanted tones. Less damaging than permanent colours. Often used in Nigerian salons for clients wanting to try a new shade without long-term commitment or for toning brassy hair.
Disadvantages: Cannot lighten hair significantly, limited grey coverage compared to permanent.
Permanent Hair Colour: Description: These colours penetrate deeply into the cortex, permanently altering the hair's natural pigment and depositing new colour. They contain ammonia (or an ammonia substitute) and require a developer (hydrogen peroxide).
Mechanism: Ammonia swells the hair, opening the cuticle. Hydrogen peroxide (developer) oxidises the natural melanin pigment, while simultaneously allowing artificial pigment molecules to enter and become trapped within the cortex.
Longevity: Permanent; the colour does not wash out but grows out, requiring root touch-ups.
Examples: Most boxed dyes and professional tube colours.
Suitability: Provides 100% grey coverage, can lighten hair several levels, and allows for significant colour changes. Widely used in Nigerian salons for clients who want full grey coverage or a dramatic, lasting colour change.
Disadvantages: Can be more damaging to hair, requires commitment and regular maintenance (root touch-ups), higher risk of allergic reactions.
Bleach/Lighteners: Description: These are chemical compounds designed to strip the hair of its natural or artificial pigment.
Mechanism: Oxidises the melanin (natural pigment) within the hair cortex, making it colourless.
Use: Essential for achieving lighter shades (e.g., blonde, pastels) or preparing hair for vibrant fashion colours that wouldn't show up on dark hair.
Risks: Can be very damaging if not used correctly, leading to breakage, dryness, and scalp irritation.
Suitability: Requires careful application, especially on sensitive Nigerian hair types (relaxed or fine natural hair). Often followed by a toner or demi-permanent colour.
Always Perform a Patch Test: Mandatory 24-48 hours prior to every chemical service.
Wear Protective Gloves: Protects the colourist's hands from chemicals and stains.
Good Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area to minimise inhalation of fumes.
Protect Client's Skin: Use barrier cream and a protective cape.
Eye Protection: Avoid contact with eyes. If contact occurs, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical attention.
Follow Manufacturer's Instructions: Adhere strictly to mixing ratios and processing times.
Do Not Overlap: Avoid applying permanent colour over previously coloured or relaxed hair unless specifically performing a corrective service.
Check Scalp Condition: Do not apply colour to a client with abrasions, sores, or any scalp sensitivity.
Keep Records: Maintain detailed client records of colours used, formulas, and processing times.
Emergency Preparedness: Know how to handle allergic reactions or chemical burns. This section provides detailed explanations of essential concepts related to hair tinting and colouring.
Question 1: A client, Ms. Ngozi, has natural dark brown hair and wants to temporarily add a vibrant red streak for a festival she will attend this weekend. She wants it to wash out completely before she returns to her professional job on Monday. a. What type of hair colour would you recommend for Ms. Ngozi? b. Justify your choice based on its characteristics.
Solution 1: a.
Type of Hair Colour: Temporary hair colour (e.g., hair chalk, colour spray, or a temporary colour rinse). b.
Justification: Temporary colours only coat the outer cuticle layer of the hair and do not penetrate the hair shaft. They are designed to wash out completely in 1-2 shampoos. This perfectly suits Ms. Ngozi's requirement for a short-term, non-committal colour change that will be gone before her professional work week. It also minimises any potential damage to her natural hair. --- Question 2: You are preparing for a full-head permanent hair colouring service on a new client. List five essential instruments and five essential material products you would need to set up your workstation.
Solution 2: Essential Instruments:
1. Non-metallic Mixing Bowl
2. Applicator Brush
3. Sectioning Clips
4. Protective Gloves
5. Tint Cape/Protective Drape (Other acceptable answers include: Timer, Measuring cups/scale, Processing cap, Towels)
Essential Material Products:
1. Permanent Hair Colour/Tint
2. Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide, appropriate volume)
3. Barrier Cream/Petroleum Jelly
4. Colour-Safe Shampoo
5. Colour-Safe Conditioner (Other acceptable answers include: Stain Remover, Patch test materials, Strand test materials) --- Question 3: Mr. Emeka, aged 50, has naturally dark brown hair (level 3) with about 70% grey hair concentrated at the temples and crown. He wants to cover all his grey and achieve a slightly lighter, warm medium brown shade (desired level 5 with a golden tone). a. What type of hair colour would be most suitable for Mr. Emeka? b. What specific level and tone of colour would you select? c. What volume of developer would you recommend and why? d. Explain why a patch test is non-negotiable for Mr. Emeka before this service.
Solution 3: a.
Type of Hair Colour: Permanent hair colour. b.
Specific Level and Tone: A level 5.3 (Light Brown Golden) or 5G (Golden Light Brown) would be suitable to achieve a warm medium brown shade. c.
Volume of Developer: 20 Volume (6%) Hydrogen Peroxide.
Reasoning: 20 volume developer is standard for effective grey coverage (up to 100%) and provides 1-2 levels of lift, which is necessary to lighten his natural level 3 to a desired level
5. Higher volumes are generally not needed for this level of lift and would increase the risk of scalp irritation and hair damage, especially with grey hair which can be more fragile. d.
Patch Test Importance: A patch test is non-negotiable because permanent hair colours contain chemicals like paraphenylenediamine (PPD) which can cause severe allergic reactions in some individuals. These reactions can range from mild itching and redness to severe swelling, blistering, and even anaphylaxis. Since Mr. Emeka is a new client and the colour will be applied directly to his scalp for grey coverage, conducting a patch test 24-48 hours prior ensures he does not have an adverse reaction, prioritising his safety and preventing potential legal liabilities for the colourist. --- Question 4: Outline the first three critical preparation steps a cosmetologist must take before actually mixing and applying hair colour to a client.
Solution 4: The first three critical preparation steps are:
1. Client Consultation and Hair Analysis: This involves discussing the client's desired outcome, assessing their natural hair level, tone, porosity, elasticity, and previous chemical treatments. It also includes inspecting the scalp for any abrasions or conditions that might contraindicate the service.
2. Patch Test (Allergy Test): A small amount of the mixed colour formula is applied to an inconspicuous area of the client's skin (e.g., behind the ear or inner elbow) 24-48 hours before the main service. This is to check for any allergic reactions to the chemical ingredients in the colour.
3. Strand Test: A small, isolated section of the client's hair (usually from the nape area) is coloured and processed to determine the exact processing time and
Entrepreneurship and Salon Business: Application: Cosmetology graduates can open their own salons or become mobile colourists, offering services directly to clients in their homes or at events. Understanding different hair types (e.g., natural, relaxed, dreadlocks) common in Nigeria allows them to cater to a broader client base. Knowing colour classifications enables them to offer a range of services from temporary fun colours for students to permanent grey coverage for professionals, tapping into various market segments. The ability to select correct shades also allows for customisation, a key differentiator in the competitive beauty market.
Nigerian Context: Many Nigerians see hair care and styling as essential, leading to a constant demand for professional services. Mastering colouring skills can significantly boost income potential and job creation in local communities. Health, Safety, and Consumer Awareness: Application: The critical emphasis on patch testing, proper ventilation, and using protective gear directly relates to public health and safety. Cosmetologists must educate clients about potential allergic reactions and the importance of professional application versus DIY box dyes, especially given the diverse hair textures and sensitivities among Nigerians.
Nigerian Context: Incidents of allergic reactions or hair damage from improper chemical use are not uncommon. Knowledge of safety protocols protects both the client and the professional, building trust and reputation in the community. It also makes learners responsible consumers and advocates for safe beauty practices.
Cultural Expression and Modern Trends: Application: Hair colouring is a significant tool for personal expression and cultural identity. From traditional uses of dyes to cover grey (e.g., using henna) to embracing global fashion trends like vibrant ombrés or balayage, understanding colour allows cosmetologists to serve diverse client preferences.
Nigerian Context: There is a growing trend for fashion colours among Nigerian youth, as well as a consistent demand for grey coverage among older clients. Cosmetologists who can adapt these global trends to suit local hair types and preferences (e.g., ensuring vibrant colours are achieved without excessive damage to kinky-coily hair) will be highly sought after. They can also advise clients on colours that complement Nigerian skin tones and cultural aesthetics.