Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 2
Drafting of basic collars
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Drafting of basic collars
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Subject: Garment Making
Class: Senior Secondary 2
Term: 1st Term
Week: 6
Theme: Pattern Drafting 1
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Students should beable to enumerate the bodyparts to be measuredfor drafting the sleeveblock. draft the sleeveblock..
(line DE) onto the new paper. Mark 'G' at the end of this curve (corresponding to E on the stand). This line FG is the roll line of the collar.
3. Define Collar Fall Width: From the roll line (FG), measure upwards (perpendicular to the curve) the desired collar fall width (e.g., 6 cm) at several points (F, midpoint, G). Mark these points.
4. Shape the Outer Edge: Connect these marked points with a smooth curve to form the outer edge of the collar.
5. Shape the Collar Points: From 'G' (the front end of the roll line), extend a line forward and downwards to form the collar point. The length and angle of this line determine the sharpness and length of the collar point. Typically, extend 1.5-2 cm from G, then drop down about 1.5-2 cm to meet the outer edge. A common point is formed by drawing a line from 'G' to a point 'H' (e.g., 2 cm from G horizontally, 1 cm from G vertically downwards), and then connecting 'H' to the outer edge.
6. Add Details: Mark grainline parallel to CB. Indicate "Cut 2 on fold" or "Cut 1 pair." * Add seam allowance (1.5 cm) around all edges (roll line, outer edge, collar points).
7. Cut the Patterns: Cut out both the collar stand and collar fall pattern pieces.
Note on Seam Allowances: In garment making, it is standard practice to add seam allowances (typically 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch) to all edges of pattern pieces where they will be stitched. Teachers should explicitly remind students to add these. --- This section provides a detailed explanation of collars, their types, and the step-by-step process for drafting two fundamental basic collars: the Peter Pan collar (a flat collar) and the Convertible collar (a rolled collar).
A. Definition of a Collar: A collar is a part of a garment that encircles the neck, typically attached to the neckline of a bodice. Collars vary widely in shape, size, and style, playing a crucial role in the garment's design and functionality.
B. Functions of Collars:
1. Aesthetics: Enhances the style and visual appeal of a garment.
2. Protection: Provides warmth and protection to the neck.
3. Support: Adds structure to the neckline.
4. Comfort: Can improve comfort by finishing the raw edge of the neckline.
5. Professionalism: Contributes to a formal or professional look in many types of attire.
C. Classification of Basic Collars: Basic collars can generally be classified into three main categories based on how they sit on the garment:
1. Flat Collars: Lie flat against the garment, following the curve of the neckline.
Examples: Peter Pan, Sailor, Bertha collars.
Characteristics: Gentle curve, low stand, often feminine or youthful.
2. Standing Collars: Stand upright around the neck.
Examples: Mandarin, Band, Nehru collars.
Characteristics: No turn-down or fall, simple band shape.
3. Rolled Collars: Partially stand and partially roll over, creating a collar fall.
Examples: Convertible, Shirt, Chelsea, Shawl collars.
Characteristics: Have a "stand" that lifts the collar from the neckline and a "fall" that turns over. The "roll line" is where the collar turns.
D. Essential Measurements for Collar Drafting: The primary measurement required for drafting most collars is the neckline circumference of the bodice or garment block to which the collar will be attached.
Other measurements may include: Collar width/depth: The desired width of the collar from the neckline edge.
Collar stand height: For rolled collars, the desired height of the standing part.
Collar point shape/length: The desired shape and length of the collar points.
E. Tools Required for Pattern Drafting: Pattern paper (brown paper, newsprint, or specialized pattern paper) Pencils (HB or 2B) Rulers (straight ruler, L-square, curved ruler/French curve) Tape measure Scissors (for paper) Tracing wheel (optional) Pins Set squares/triangles ---
F. Step-by-Step Drafting of Basic Collars:
I. Drafting the Peter Pan Collar (A Flat Collar)
Concept: The Peter Pan collar is a simple, flat collar that lies smoothly around the neckline. It is drafted directly from the neckline of the bodice block.
Measurements Needed: Front Bodice Neckline measurement. Back Bodice Neckline measurement. Desired collar width (e.g., 5-7 cm).
Procedure:
1. Prepare the Neckline: Obtain the front and back bodice pattern pieces. Overlap the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice pieces by approximately 1.5 cm (standard seam allowance) at the shoulder tip, aligning the neckline curves. Pin or tape them together temporarily. This creates a combined neckline curve for drafting.
2. Draw the Base Line: On a new piece of pattern paper, draw a straight horizontal line. This will be the center back (CB) of the collar.
3. Transfer Neckline: Place the prepared (overlapped) bodice neckline onto the pattern paper, aligning the center back (CB) of the back bodice neckline with the horizontal line drawn in step
2. Trace the entire neckline curve (from CB to center front, CF) onto the pattern paper. Mark the CB, shoulder point, and CF points.
4. Define Collar Width: From the traced neckline curve, measure outwards by the desired collar width (e.g., 6 cm) at various points (CB, shoulder, CF, and in between) and mark these points. Ensure the measurements are perpendicular to the neckline curve.
5. Shape the Outer Edge: Connect the marked points for the collar width with a smooth, continuous curve. This forms the outer edge of the collar.
6. Shape the Front Edge: At the center front (CF), decide on the desired shape of the collar's front edge. For a standard Peter Pan, it's typically a gentle curve or rounded corner. Draw this curve, connecting the outer edge to the CF point on the neckline. 7. *Add CF, and in between) and mark these points. Ensure the measurements are perpendicular to the neckline curve.
5. Shape the Outer Edge: Connect the marked points for the collar width with a smooth, continuous curve. This forms the outer edge of the collar.
6. Shape the Front Edge: At the center front (CF), decide on the desired shape of the collar's front edge. For a standard Peter Pan, it's typically a gentle curve or rounded corner. Draw this curve, connecting the outer edge to the CF point on the neckline.
7. Add Details: Mark the grainline parallel to the center back (CB) line. Indicate "Cut 2 on fold" (if it's a full collar drafted from CB to CF as half). Or "Cut 1 pair" if drafted as a full piece. Usually, it's drafted as half from CB to CF and cut on fold. Add seam allowance (typically 1.5 cm) around all edges: the neckline edge, the outer edge, and the front edge.
8. Cut the Pattern: Cut out the drafted collar pattern piece. I
I. Drafting the Convertible Collar (A Rolled Collar - Basic Shirt Collar Type)
Concept: A convertible collar is designed to be worn either open (rolled back) or closed (buttoned up), hence "convertible." It consists of two main parts: the collar stand and the collar fall.
Measurements Needed: Front Bodice Neckline measurement. Back Bodice Neckline measurement. Desired Collar Stand Height (e.g., 2.5 cm). Desired Collar Fall Width (e.g., 5-7 cm). Desired Collar Point Length.
Procedure for Collar Stand:
1. Draw Base Lines: On pattern paper, draw a horizontal line (for the neckline edge of the stand) and a perpendicular vertical line from its left end (for the center back, CB). Label the intersection 'A'.
2. Measure Neckline Arc: From 'A' along the horizontal line, measure the back neckline measurement (e.g., 8 cm) and mark 'B'. From 'B', measure the front neckline measurement (e.g., 10 cm) and mark 'C'. (
Note: Total A-C = Total Neckline Arc - 1.5 cm overlap if not using actual full neckline).
3. Define Stand Height: From 'A' upwards along the CB line, measure the desired stand height (e.g., 2.5 cm) and mark 'D'. From 'C' upwards, measure the stand height plus a slight curve allowance (e.g., 2.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 3 cm) and mark 'E'.
4. Shape the Top Edge: Connect 'D' and 'E' with a smooth, slightly upward curving line. This is the top edge of the collar stand where the collar fall will attach.
5. Shape the Front Edge: From 'E', draw a slightly curved line downwards and inwards, typically ending about 0.5-1 cm inwards from 'C' on the horizontal line, forming the front opening curve of the stand. This depends on button stand width.
6. Add Details: Mark grainline parallel to CB. Indicate "Cut 2" or "Cut 2 on fold" (depending on whether it's drafted for half or full neckline). Usually drafted for half and cut 2 pairs (outer and inner stand). Add seam allowance (1.5 cm) around all edges. Procedure for Collar Fall (Attaches to the Stand):
1. Draw Base Lines: On new pattern paper, draw a horizontal line and a perpendicular vertical line (CB) from its left end. Label the intersection 'F'.
2. Transfer Top Edge of Stand: Place the drafted collar stand pattern piece (CB to E) onto the new paper. Align the CB of the stand (line AD) with the vertical line from 'F'. Align point 'D' with 'F'. Trace the top curved edge of the stand (line DE) onto the new paper. Mark 'G' at the end of this curve (corresponding to E on the stand). This line FG is the roll line of the collar.
3. Define Collar Fall Width: From the roll line (FG), measure upwards (perpendicular to the curve) the desired collar fall width (e.g., 6 cm) at several points (F, midpoint, G). Mark these points.
4. Shape the Outer Edge: Connect these marked points with a smooth curve to form the outer edge of the collar.
5. Shape the Collar Points: From 'G' (the Teacher Activities: Introduction (10 minutes): Initiate a discussion on different types of garments students wear or see daily that have collars (e.g., school uniforms, native wear, corporate shirts, jackets). Ask students to identify the different ways collars sit on the neck (flat, standing, rolled).
Introduce the topic: "Drafting of Basic Collars" and highlight its importance in garment construction and future careers. State the learning objectives for the lesson.
Explanation of Key Concepts (20 minutes): Define what a collar is and explain its functions. Categorize basic collars into Flat, Standing, and Rolled, providing examples for each. Discuss the essential measurements required for collar drafting, emphasizing the importance of accurate neckline measurements from the bodice block. List and display the pattern drafting tools required. Demonstration of Peter Pan Collar Drafting (30 minutes): Using a large sheet of pattern paper (or chalkboard/whiteboard if suitable for drawing), visibly demonstrate the step-by-step drafting process for a Peter Pan collar. Use a pre-prepared front and back bodice neckline (or draw a representative curve). Clearly verbalize each step, emphasizing accuracy, smooth curves, and marking key points (CB, shoulder, CF). Show how to add seam allowances and mark grainline. Allow for questions during the demonstration. Demonstration of Convertible Collar Drafting (40 minutes): Proceed with the step-by-step demonstration of drafting a Convertible Collar, distinguishing between the collar stand and the collar fall. Explain the concept of the roll line. Emphasize the precision required for connecting the stand and fall, and shaping the collar points. Reinforce the importance of adding seam allowances and grainlines. Address student queries throughout the demonstration.
Recap and Q&A (10 minutes): Review the key steps and principles for drafting both collar types. Address any remaining questions or areas of confusion from students.
Student Activities: Active Participation (throughout the lesson): Engage in the initial discussion about collars and their types. Take notes on definitions, classifications, measurements, and tools. Observe the teacher's drafting demonstrations attentively. Ask clarifying questions during explanations and demonstrations. Practical Application - Guided Practice (1 hour): Students will follow along with the teacher's instructions or work in small groups to draft their own Peter Pan collar and Convertible collar patterns on pattern paper, using pre-assigned neckline measurements or scaled bodice blocks. They will practice measuring, drawing curves, and marking necessary details. Seek assistance from the teacher as needed.
Independent Practice (Homework/Extension): Students will practice drafting additional collar variations or re-draft the demonstrated collars based on different given measurements, reinforcing their understanding and skills. ---
Tailoring and Fashion Design Industry: The ability to draft various collar types is fundamental for professional tailors and fashion designers in Nigeria. This skill is directly applicable to creating customized garments like corporate shirts, school uniforms, ceremonial attire, and high-fashion pieces. A well-drafted collar enhances the quality and market value of a garment. For instance, a tailor in Lagos specializing in bespoke shirts relies heavily on accurate collar drafting for client satisfaction.
Garment Repair and Alterations: Knowledge of collar construction allows individuals to perform skilled garment repairs and alterations. For example, replacing a damaged collar on a school uniform shirt or altering the style of a collar on a traditional Agbada or Buba to a more contemporary look (e.g., a band collar) requires an understanding of how collars are drafted and attached. This offers a valuable service in local communities. Entrepreneurship and Small Business Development: Students can leverage their collar drafting skills to start small businesses. They can specialize in making various types of collars as add-ons for garments, design and produce unique collar styles for local fashion brands, or offer pattern drafting services to other garment makers. This directly contributes to job creation and economic empowerment at the grassroots level, aligning with national development goals for vocational skills. ---