Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 1
Making of Simple Garments: Garment Making Processes
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Making of Simple Garments: Garment Making Processes
Download the Lessonotes Mobile Nigeria 2025 app for faster lesson access on Android and iPhone.
Subject: Clothing & Textiles
Class: Senior Secondary 1
Term: 3rd Term
Week: 5
Theme: Effective Garment Construction
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Select the appropriate processes in constructing a garment Apply the processes selected for garment construction Differentiate between different types of:-stitches,-seams,-openings-fasteningsused in garment construction; Make simple garments.
length are adjustable.
B. Seams: A seam is the line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of fabric together.
Plain Seam: The most common and versatile seam. It is suitable for most fabrics and garment areas.
Process: Place fabric pieces right sides together, stitch along the seam line. Trim seam allowances and press open or to one side.
Uses: Side seams, shoulder seams, sleeve seams, skirts, trousers.
Seam Finishes for Plain Seam: Pinked: For firmly woven fabrics that do not fray easily. Use pinking shears.
Overcast/Whipstitched: For fabrics that fray easily. Hand or machine overcast the raw edges.
Zigzagged: Machine zigzag stitch along the raw edges.
Bound: For unlined jackets or heavy fabrics, raw edges are enclosed in bias binding.
French Seam: A durable and neat enclosed seam, ideal for sheer fabrics (e.g., chiffon, organza), light-to-medium weight fabrics, and garments where neatness inside is paramount (e.g., children's clothes, lingerie, unlined jackets). Not suitable for heavy fabrics or curved seams.
Process:
1. Place fabric wrong sides together. Stitch a seam 6mm (1⁄4 inch) from the edge.
2. Trim seam allowance to 3mm (1⁄8 inch).
3. Press the seam flat, then press both seam allowances to one side.
4. Fold fabric right sides together, encasing the raw edges. Press along the seam line.
5. Stitch again, 6mm (1⁄4 inch) from the folded edge, ensuring all raw edges are enclosed. Press to one side.
Nigerian context: Good for light Ankara or Aso-Oke fabrics, especially for blouses or children's wear. Run and Fell Seam (Lapped Seam/Flat-Felled Seam): A very strong and durable seam that lies flat against the fabric. Both raw edges are enclosed, making it neat on both sides. Ideal for garments requiring strength and resistance to wear and tear (e.g., work clothes, sportswear, menswear, denim).
Process:
1. Place fabric wrong sides together (or right sides together, depending on if you want the "fell" visible on the outside or inside). Stitch the seam.
2. Trim one seam allowance to 3mm (1⁄8 inch) and the other to 12mm (1⁄2 inch).
3. Press the wider seam allowance over the narrower one.
4. Fold the wider seam allowance edge under by 6mm (1⁄4 inch) so it encloses the raw edge of the narrower allowance. Press flat.
5. Topstitch through all layers, close to the folded edge.
Nigerian context: Excellent for Ankara shirts, work trousers, or children's school uniforms.
C. Openings: Garment openings facilitate putting on and taking off clothing.
Placket Opening: A finished slit in a garment, often found at sleeves, necklines, or skirts.
Continuous Wrap Placket: Simple and common, often used at sleeve openings or necklines for children's wear.
Process: Cut a fabric strip twice the desired placket length plus seam allowances. Stitch strip to opening edge, right sides together. Fold strip over, turn under raw edge, and slipstitch in place on the wrong side.
Faced Placket: Uses a shaped facing to finish an opening.
Slit Opening: A simple cut in the fabric finished with a narrow hem or facing. Common in skirts or sleeves.
Zipper Opening: Uses a zipper (metal or nylon) for a quick and secure fastening.
Centered Zipper: Zipper teeth are centered under the seam line.
Process: Machine basted the seam opening. Press seam open. Lay zipper face down over opening, centering teeth over seam. Stitch zipper tape to seam allowance from right side, keeping stitches equidistant from seam line.
Lapped Zipper: One side of the zipper is covered by a fabric lap.
Process: Prepare opening with one seam allowance wider than the other. Stitch zipper to the narrower seam allowance. Position wider seam allowance to overlap zipper, then stitch down, creating a lap.
Uses: Skirts, dresses, trousers, bags.
Buttonhole Opening: A finished slit through which a button passes.
Machine Buttonhole: Created using a sewing machine with a buttonhole foot.
Hand-worked Buttonhole: Created using buttonhole stitches.
D. Fastenings: Devices used to close openings and hold garment parts together.
Buttons: Sew-Through Buttons: Have two or four holes. Sewn flat onto the fabric. * Garment Making Processes: These refer to the systematic sequence of steps and techniques employed to transform fabric into a wearable item of clothing. They ensure structural integrity, neatness, and the desired aesthetic of the finished product. General Stages of Garment Construction (Brief Overview):
1. Design and Pattern Selection: Choosing a garment style and corresponding pattern.
2. Fabric Preparation: Preshrinking, straightening grainline, checking for flaws.
3. Pattern Layout and Pinning: Arranging pattern pieces correctly on the fabric.
4. Cutting: Precisely cutting fabric according to pattern pieces.
5. Marking: Transferring pattern markings (darts, buttonholes, notches) to the fabric.
6. Interfacing/Underlining Application: Adding support or body where needed.
7. Construction (Core of this lesson): Assembling the garment using various stitches, seams, openings, and fastenings.
8. Fitting: Checking the garment's fit during construction and making necessary adjustments.
9. Finishing: Hemming, pressing, and final touches. Detailed Explanation of Construction Processes:
A. Stitches: Stitches are fundamental for joining fabric pieces and finishing edges. Temporary Stitches (Basting/Tacking Stitches): Used for holding fabric layers together temporarily before permanent stitching, and for marking.
Even Basting: Short, even stitches (e.g., 6mm) used for holding two or more layers of fabric that will undergo some strain, like a tailored collar or setting in a sleeve.
Process: Insert needle through both layers, take a small stitch, pull through. Repeat, keeping stitches even.
Uneven Basting: Longer stitches on one side (e.g., 12mm) and shorter on the other (e.g., 3mm). Used for holding larger sections that won't bear much strain, like side seams before fitting.
Process: Take a long stitch, then a short one, alternating.
Diagonal Basting: Used for holding facings, interfacings, or lining to main fabric, allowing the garment to lie flat. Stitches are taken diagonally.
Process: Work from right to left (for right-handed), making short vertical stitches on the underside and longer diagonal stitches on the top.
Permanent Stitches (Hand Stitches): Used for permanent construction, decoration, or finishing when machine stitching is not suitable or desired.
Running Stitch: Small, even stitches used for gathering, seaming light fabrics, or mending. The simplest and quickest hand stitch.
Process: Weave the needle in and out of the fabric, picking up small, even bits of fabric.
Backstitch: Strongest hand stitch, resembling machine stitching on the right side. Used for seams, mending, or areas requiring strength.
Process: Bring needle up, make a stitch backward. Bring needle up ahead of the first stitch, then insert it into the end of the previous stitch.
Hemming Stitch: Used for securing hems invisibly or inconspicuously.
Process (Slant Hemming): Fold hem allowance. Take a tiny stitch from the garment fabric, then a slightly larger, slanted stitch into the hem edge.
Process (Slip Stitch): Used for invisible hemming. Slide needle through the fold of the hem for a short distance, then pick up one or two threads from the garment fabric directly opposite.
Whipstitch (Overcasting): Small, closely spaced, slanted stitches used to finish raw edges to prevent fraying.
Process: Work from right to left, bringing the needle over the raw edge and taking a small, slanted stitch through the fabric layers.
Buttonhole Stitch: A strong, neat stitch used to reinforce and finish hand-worked buttonholes.
Process: Bring needle up through fabric. Loop thread around needle tip, pull through to create a purl (knot) at the edge.
Machine Stitches: Straight Stitch: The most common machine stitch, used for seams, topstitching, and general construction. Stitch length is adjustable.
Zigzag Stitch: A versatile stitch used for seam finishes, buttonholes, appliqué, and decorative purposes. Width and length are adjustable.
B. Seams: A seam is the line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of fabric together.
Plain Seam: The most common and versatile seam. It is suitable for most fabrics and garment areas.
Process: Place fabric pieces right sides together, stitch along the seam line. Trim seam allowances and press open or to one side.
Uses: Side seams, shoulder seams, sleeve seams, skirts, trousers.
Seam Finishes for Plain Seam: * Pinked: For firmly woven fabrics that do not fray easily. Use pinking shears. with one seam allowance wider than the other. Stitch zipper to the narrower seam allowance. Position wider seam allowance to overlap zipper, then stitch down, creating a lap.
Uses: Skirts, dresses, trousers, bags.
Buttonhole Opening: A finished slit through which a button passes.
Machine Buttonhole: Created using a sewing machine with a buttonhole foot.
Hand-worked Buttonhole: Created using buttonhole stitches.
D. Fastenings: Devices used to close openings and hold garment parts together.
Buttons: Sew-Through Buttons: Have two or four holes. Sewn flat onto the fabric.
Process: Mark button position. Use a double thread. Pass needle from wrong side to right side through one hole, then back through another. Repeat several times. For a shank, place a pin under the button while sewing, then remove it and wrap thread around stitches beneath the button to create a thread shank.
Shank Buttons: Have a loop or shank at the back.
Process: Mark button position. Pass needle through the shank from the wrong side, then back into the fabric. Repeat multiple times. Secure thread on wrong side.
Uses: Blouses, shirts, dresses, coats, skirts, trousers.
Zippers: Already covered under openings.
Hooks and Eyes: Used for discrete fastenings at waistbands, necklines, or overlapping edges.
Round Hooks and Eyes: Used when edges meet but do not overlap (e.g., top of a dress opening).
Process: Sew the eye to the edge of one fabric layer. Sew the hook to the other fabric layer, aligning it with the eye. Use small, strong stitches around the loops.
Straight Hooks and Eyes: Used when edges overlap (e.g., waistband).
Process: Sew the eye to the underside of the overlapping edge. Sew the hook to the top of the underlapping edge, aligning it.
Uses: Waistbands of skirts/trousers, necklines, brassieres.
Hooks and Bars: Stronger version of hooks and eyes, with a rectangular bar for the hook to catch onto. Commonly used for men's trousers waistbands and heavy garments.
Process: Similar to hooks and eyes, but the bar is sewn instead of the eye.
Uses: Waistbands of trousers, heavy skirts.
Press Studs (Snaps): Two-part fasteners (ball and socket) that snap together. Used for light fastenings where little strain is expected or for invisible closures.
Process: Sew the "ball" part to the underside of the overlapping fabric edge. Sew the "socket" part to the top of the underlapping fabric edge, ensuring alignment. Use small stitches through the holes.
Uses: Children's wear, plackets, light blouses, reversible garments.
Velcro (Hook-and-Loop Fastener): A synthetic fastener with two fabric strips (one with tiny hooks, one with tiny loops) that adhere when pressed together. Can be sewn or ironed on.
Process: Pin the hook side to one fabric edge and the loop side to the other, ensuring proper alignment for closure. Stitch securely around the edges of the tape.
Uses: Bags, sportswear, children's clothing, adaptive clothing. Tapes (e.g., Tie Tapes): Fabric strips used for tying, often in traditional garments or for internal closures.
Process: Fold and stitch fabric strips to create ties. Attach securely to garment edges or internal points.
Uses:* Traditional Nigerian blouses, internal waist ties for skirts, baby clothes.
Teacher Activities: Introduction (5 minutes): Review previous knowledge on garment construction tools and fabric types. Introduce the topic "Garment Making Processes," emphasizing its importance for quality and durability. Present the learning objectives for the lesson. Concept Explanation and Visual Aids (20 minutes): Explain each type of stitch (temporary, permanent, machine), seam (plain, French, run & fell), opening (placket, zipper), and fastening (buttons, hooks & eyes/bars, press studs, Velcro) in detail. Use large charts showing illustrations of stitches, seams, openings, and fastenings. Display actual garment samples or fabric swatches demonstrating correctly executed stitches, seams, openings, and fastenings. For example, a shirt with a run and fell seam, a dress with a French seam, a skirt with a lapped zipper. Discuss the appropriate uses for each process, linking it to fabric type and garment style (e.g., French seams for light blouses, run and fell for Ankara work shirts).
Demonstration (30 minutes): Demonstrate step-by-step how to execute key processes on fabric swatches using a sewing machine (if available) and by hand: Running stitch, backstitch, slip stitch, whipstitch. Plain seam with one finish (e.g., zigzag). French seam. Run and fell seam. Attaching a sew-through button and a hook & eye/bar. If time permits, demonstrate a continuous wrap placket or a lapped zipper insertion. Ensure all students can clearly see the demonstration. Use contrasting thread for visibility.
Guided Practical Application (35 minutes): Distribute fabric swatches (e.g., 20x20cm squares), needles, threads, and scissors to each student or group. Instruct students to practice the demonstrated stitches, seams, and fastenings on their swatches. Circulate around the classroom, providing individual guidance, correcting techniques, and answering questions. Encourage peer-to-peer learning.
Discussion and Q&A (10 minutes): Facilitate a short discussion on the challenges encountered during practical work and how they were overcome. Address any lingering questions about the different processes. Review the uses and differences between selected processes.
Assignment (5 minutes): Assign project work (making an album) and independent practice questions.
Student Activities: Observation: Pay close attention to teacher explanations and demonstrations.
Note-taking: Record key definitions, processes, and appropriate uses.
Practical Work: Practice various hand stitches (running, backstitch, slip stitch, whipstitch) on fabric swatches. Construct sample plain seams (with a finish), French seams, and run and fell seams on fabric swatches. Practice attaching a sew-through button and a hook and eye/bar on fabric swatches. If materials and time allow, practice a simple opening like a continuous wrap placket or a basic zipper insertion.
Comparison and Analysis: Examine garment samples and differentiate between the types of stitches, seams, openings, and fastenings used.
Participation: Ask questions and contribute to classroom discussions.
Group Work (Optional): Students can work in small groups to share materials and assist each other during practical sessions.
Homework/Project: Begin working on the independent practice questions and the project work (making an album of processes).
Entrepreneurial Opportunities (Economy): Students can leverage the detailed understanding of garment making processes to start small businesses. For example, setting up a tailoring shop to create Ankara outfits, school uniforms, or alter ready-made clothes for local customers. Mastering techniques like French seams for quality children's wear or run and fell seams for durable work clothes can be a strong selling point. This directly contributes to the local economy and reduces reliance on imported garments. Personal Skill Development & Resourcefulness (Community/Household): The ability to make, mend, and alter clothing saves household expenses and promotes self-reliance. For instance, knowing how to sew a plain seam or attach a button can extend the life of school uniforms or personal clothes, reducing waste and contributing to sustainable living within a Nigerian community where resources might be limited. Students can also apply these skills to create simple household items like cushion covers or curtains. Appreciation of Quality & Cultural Preservation (Culture/Economy): By understanding the intricacies of different stitches, seams, and fastenings, students develop an informed perspective on garment quality. They can differentiate between well-constructed items and poorly made ones, making them smarter consumers. This knowledge also allows them to appreciate the craftsmanship in traditional Nigerian attire (e.g., the hand-stitched details on agbada or gele) and potentially contribute to its preservation and modernization.