Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 1
Ways of obtaning patterns
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Ways of obtaning patterns
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Subject: Garment Making
Class: Senior Secondary 1
Term: 2nd Term
Week: 3
Theme: Patterns In Garment Making
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Students should beable to enumerate the different ways of obtaining patterns. state the merits and demerits of variousmethods/techniques of obtaining patterns.
Definition of a Pattern in Garment Making: A pattern is a flat template, usually made of paper, from which parts of a garment can be traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. It serves as a blueprint or guide to ensure accuracy, consistency, and proper fit in garment construction.
Importance of Patterns: Accuracy and Fit: Ensures that garment pieces are cut precisely to body measurements, leading to well-fitting clothes.
Consistency: Allows for the reproduction of the same garment design multiple times with uniform results.
Efficiency: Streamlines the cutting process, saving time and reducing fabric wastage.
Design Manipulation: Provides a base for adapting and modifying styles, adding design features, or creating variations.
Ways of Obtaining Patterns: There are several established methods for obtaining garment patterns, each with its unique process, advantages, and disadvantages. Teachers should explain these thoroughly, using visual aids or demonstrations where possible. I. Drafting (Flat Pattern Making) This method involves creating a pattern from scratch on paper using body measurements and specific drafting rules.
Process:
1. Taking Accurate Body Measurements: This is the foundational step. Measurements such as bust, waist, hip, shoulder width, back length, arm length, etc., are taken from the individual.
2. Drawing Basic Blocks (Slopers): Using the measurements, basic foundational patterns (also known as slopers or blocks) for bodice, skirt, sleeve, or trousers are drawn on pattern paper. These blocks are plain, close-fitting, and have no style features.
3. Pattern Manipulation: The basic blocks are then manipulated (e.g., dart manipulation, adding fullness, creating style lines, changing necklines or armholes) to achieve desired garment designs.
4. Adding Seam Allowances and Markings: Necessary seam allowances, grain lines, notches, and other construction markings are added to the final pattern pieces.
Tools: Measuring tape, L-square ruler, Hip curve, French curve, Pattern master, Pencil, Eraser, Pattern paper (e.g., brown paper, newsprint), Tracing wheel, Shears.
Merits: Custom Fit: Produces patterns that are perfectly tailored to an individual's specific body measurements, ensuring an excellent fit.
Design Flexibility: Offers complete creative control, allowing designers to create unique and original designs without limitations.
Cost-Effective: Once the skill is acquired, it eliminates the recurring cost of purchasing commercial patterns.
Understanding Garment Construction: Deepens the understanding of how garments are constructed in 2D and how they translate to 3
D. Demerits: Time-Consuming: The initial drafting process can be lengthy, especially for complex designs or when starting from scratch.
Requires Skill and Precision: Demands a good understanding of geometry, proportion, and drafting rules, as well as meticulous attention to detail.
Errors Can Occur: Mistakes in measurement or drafting can lead to ill-fitting garments, requiring corrections.
Not Ideal for Quick Production: Less efficient for mass production compared to commercial patterns or CAD. II. Draping (Modelling on the Stand) This method involves creating a pattern by shaping and pinning fabric directly onto a three-dimensional dress form (mannequin).
Process:
1. Preparation of Dress Form: The dress form is padded to match the specific body measurements of the wearer if it's for a custom client.
2. Pinning and Shaping Fabric: Calico fabric (muslin) is pinned and draped onto the dress form, manipulating it to create the desired design lines, folds, and silhouette.
3. Marking Design Lines: Tailor's chalk or pencil is used to mark all essential design lines (necklines, armholes, dart placements, style lines, waistlines) directly on the draped fabric.
4. Transferring to Paper: The draped fabric pieces are carefully removed from the dress form, flattened, and then transferred onto pattern paper, where seam allowances and other markings are added.
Tools: Dress form/mannequin, Calico fabric (muslin), Pins, Measuring tape, Tailor's chalk/pencil, Shears, Curved rulers.
Merits: Excellent for Complex Designs: Ideal for creating unusual, asymmetrical, or bias-cut designs that are difficult to visualize in 2
D. Visual Appeal: Allows the designer to see how the fabric will drape and flow on a 3D form, making design adjustments easier in real-time.
Good for Beginners (Visual Learners): Provides a tactile and visual way to understand garment construction and form.
Creative Freedom: Offers immense creative freedom in manipulating fabric directly.
Demerits: * *Requires of body types.
Material and Notions Guides: Provides estimates for fabric yardage and a list of necessary notions (zippers, buttons, etc.).
Demerits: May Not Fit Perfectly: Rarely fits an individual perfectly "out of the box," often requiring alterations for a custom fit.
Limited Design Flexibility: Designs are fixed; making significant changes can be challenging for beginners.
Cost: Involves a recurring cost for each new pattern purchased.
Understanding Symbols: Interpreting pattern symbols and instructions can be confusing for novices.
Availability: Specific patterns may not always be readily available in local Nigerian markets, sometimes requiring online purchase. V. Computer-Aided Design (CAD) / Digital Pattern Making This modern method uses specialized computer software to design, draft, grade, and manipulate patterns digitally.
Process:
1. Digital Drafting: Patterns are created directly on a computer screen using software tools, either from measurements or by adapting existing digital blocks.
2. Manipulation and Grading: Software allows for quick manipulation of pattern pieces, dart adjustments, style changes, and efficient grading (resizing) to multiple sizes.
3. Plotting: The digital patterns can be printed out in full scale using a large-format plotter.
Tools: Computer, Specialized CAD software (e.g., Optitex, Gerber Accumark, Lectra Modaris, Clo3D, Marvelous Designer), Digitizer (for converting paper patterns to digital), Plotter (for printing digital patterns).
Merits: High Accuracy and Precision: Minimizes human error, leading to highly accurate patterns.
Speed and Efficiency: Significantly reduces pattern development and grading time, ideal for industrial production.
Material Optimization: Allows for efficient fabric layout (nesting) to minimize waste.
Easy Modification and Archiving: Patterns can be easily modified, stored, and retrieved digitally.
Virtual Prototyping: Some software allows for 3D garment visualization, reducing the need for physical samples.
Demerits: High Initial Cost: Requires substantial investment in software licenses and specialized hardware (computers, plotters).
Specialized Training: Requires extensive training and technical skills to operate the software effectively.
Power Dependency: Relies heavily on electricity, which can be a challenge in some parts of Nigeria.
Not Accessible to Small-Scale Tailors: The high cost makes it prohibitive for individual tailors or small businesses. form/mannequin, Calico fabric (muslin), Pins, Measuring tape, Tailor's chalk/pencil, Shears, Curved rulers.
Merits: Excellent for Complex Designs: Ideal for creating unusual, asymmetrical, or bias-cut designs that are difficult to visualize in 2
D. Visual Appeal: Allows the designer to see how the fabric will drape and flow on a 3D form, making design adjustments easier in real-time.
Good for Beginners (Visual Learners): Provides a tactile and visual way to understand garment construction and form.
Creative Freedom: Offers immense creative freedom in manipulating fabric directly.
Demerits: Requires a Dress Form: An expensive initial investment, and requires multiple dress forms if working for various body types.
Fabric Wastage: Often involves using muslin or calico, which adds to material cost and potential waste.
Time-Consuming: Can be a lengthy process, especially for intricate designs. Not Ideal for Precise Symmetrical Garments: Achieving perfect symmetry can be challenging compared to flat pattern drafting.
Difficult to Duplicate (initially): Requires careful transfer to paper to make a reusable pattern. III. Tracing/Copying from Existing Garments This method involves creating a pattern by duplicating an existing garment that fits well or has a desirable style.
Process:
1. Preparing the Garment: The existing garment is laid flat and smoothed out. For best results, it might need to be carefully unstitched or disassembled along its seams.
2. Tracing: Each section of the garment (e.g., front bodice, back bodice, sleeve) is carefully traced onto pattern paper using a tracing wheel or pencil.
3. Adding Seam Allowances and Markings: Seam allowances are added around the traced outlines, and crucial markings like grain lines, notches, and dart points are transferred.
4. Verification: The traced pieces are checked against the original garment or a measuring tape for accuracy.
Tools: Existing garment, Pattern paper, Tracing wheel, Ruler, Pencil, Weights (to hold garment flat), Seam ripper (if disassembling).
Merits: Easy for Beginners: Does not require complex mathematical calculations or advanced drafting skills.
Good for Replicating Favourites: Ideal for creating duplicates of a beloved garment that fits perfectly.
Quick Method: Generally faster than drafting from scratch.
No Complex Measurements: Bypasses the need for extensive body measurements.
Demerits: Potential for Distortion: The original garment might be stretched, shrunk, or distorted from wear, leading to inaccuracies in the new pattern.
Risk of Damaging Garment: Disassembling an existing garment can damage it.
Limited Design Flexibility: Difficult to introduce new design features or significantly alter the style.
Requires a Well-Fitting Original: The quality of the copied pattern depends entirely on the fit and condition of the original garment. IV. Using Commercial Patterns (Ready-made Patterns) These are pre-designed and pre-graded patterns produced by commercial companies, sold in various sizes.
Process:
1. Selection: Choose a pattern based on desired style, fabric type, and body measurements (referencing the pattern envelope size chart).
2. Preparation: Cut out the required pattern pieces from the tissue paper provided in the envelope.
3. Interpretation: Read and understand the pattern instructions, symbols, and cutting layouts.
4. Fabric Layout and Cutting: Lay out pattern pieces on fabric according to instructions, pin, and cut.
Examples of Commercial Pattern Companies: Simplicity, Vogue, Butterick, McCall's, Burda, and various local Nigerian pattern vendors found in markets.
Merits: Ready-to-Use: Patterns are already designed, drafted, and graded, saving significant time.
Professional Designs: Offers a wide variety of fashionable and professionally designed styles.
Detailed Instructions: Usually comes with comprehensive instructions for cutting, sewing, and finishing, making it suitable for beginners.
Graded Sizes: Available in multiple sizes, catering to a range of body types.
Material and Notions Guides: Provides estimates for fabric yardage and a list of necessary notions (zippers, buttons, etc.).
Demerits: May Not Fit Perfectly: Rarely fits an individual perfectly "out of the box," often requiring alterations for a custom fit.
Limited Design Flexibility: Designs are fixed; making significant changes can be challenging for beginners.
Cost: Involves a recurring cost for each new pattern purchased.
Understanding Symbols: Interpreting pattern symbols and instructions can be confusing for novices. * Availability: Specific patterns may not always be Teacher Activities: Introduction: Begin by engaging students with a question about how clothes are made, leading to the concept of patterns.
Definition and Importance: Clearly define "pattern" and explain its significance in garment making.
Systematic Explanation: Introduce each method of obtaining patterns (Drafting, Draping, Tracing, Commercial, CAD) one by one.
Detailed Explanation and Tools: For each method, explain the process involved, and demonstrate or show pictures/samples of the tools used (e.g., L-square, French curve, pattern paper, commercial pattern envelope, muslin, dress form if available).
Merits and Demerits Discussion: Facilitate a discussion on the advantages and disadvantages of each method, encouraging students to think critically.
Visual Aids: Utilize diagrams, charts, actual pattern samples (drafted block, commercial pattern tissue, traced garment piece, draped fabric on a mini dress form if available), or videos to illustrate each method.
Practical Demonstration (if feasible): Tracing: Demonstrate how to trace a simple, unstitched garment section (e.g., a simple sleeve or pocket) onto pattern paper.
Drafting: Briefly show how to draw a simple straight line skirt block using basic measurements on a chalkboard or large paper.
Question and Answer Session: Encourage students to ask questions and provide clear, concise answers.
Activity Guidance: Guide students through any practical activities, ensuring safety and correct procedures.
Review and Consolidation: Summarize the key points of the lesson at the end.
Student Activities: Active Listening and Note-Taking: Students listen attentively and take comprehensive notes on definitions, methods, tools, merits, and demerits.
Participation in Discussions: Students contribute to discussions on the pros and cons of each pattern-making method.
Identification of Tools: Students identify and name various pattern-making tools displayed by the teacher.
Observation of Demonstrations: Students carefully observe teacher demonstrations of tracing and basic drafting techniques. Simple Tracing Exercise (Optional Practical): Students, under supervision, could attempt to trace a simple object (e.g., a hand, a shoe sole) or a small, flat garment piece onto paper to understand the concept of outline tracing.
Comparison and Analysis: Students compare and contrast different methods based on their understanding.
Questioning: Students ask clarifying questions to deepen their understanding.
Entrepreneurship and Job Creation: Understanding different pattern-making methods is fundamental for individuals looking to start their own tailoring businesses, fashion labels, or bespoke garment services. Mastery of drafting allows for custom orders, while familiarity with commercial patterns aids in efficient ready-to-wear production in Nigerian markets.
Cultural Preservation and Modernization: Knowledge of pattern making enables designers and tailors to accurately recreate traditional Nigerian attire (e.g., Agbada, Kaftan, Iro and Buba, Dashiki) or adapt these styles into contemporary fashion pieces, thereby preserving cultural heritage while appealing to modern tastes. This is crucial for events like weddings, religious ceremonies, and national celebrations.
Costume Design for Entertainment Industry: In Nollywood or local theatre productions, pattern making is essential for creating specific costumes that reflect characters, eras, or cultural contexts. Draping, for instance, might be used for elaborate or historical garments, while tracing could replicate existing traditional outfits.
Resourcefulness and Sustainability: In communities where ready-made patterns or specific tools might be scarce, the ability to draft from scratch or trace existing garments promotes resourcefulness and reduces reliance on imported materials. This fosters a more sustainable approach to fashion production.